Country walk - Setley - New Forest

From the archive, first published Saturday 15th Jan 2000.

Most of this walk is through Roydon Woods nature reserve. These beautiful mixed woodlands are ungrazed and shelter a wealth of wildlife. There is a fine view of Roydon Manor where W H Hudson wrote Hampshire Days and an unforgettable glimpse of the upper reaches of the Lymington River.

1 We start from the Filly Inn pub. This old world hostelry is situated beside a busy main road but once inside you will enjoy a real New Forest atmosphere. Close by stands the Marlpit Oak where highwaymen once demanded your money or your life. And to remind us of those days the ghost of a repentant highwayman now haunts the pub.

With your back to the main road and the side of the pub on your left, cross the pub car park and turn left through a small iron gate. Descend the steps and turn right along a narrow lane, which was once the main road to Lymington.

2 After a few yards, turn left over a cattle grid along a track signed Private, Bridleway only. A pretty tree-shaded way leads you beside a green valley to enter the woods of Roydon nature reserve. The reserve comprises 750 acres of the Lymington River valley and is mainly broadleaved woodland. Come here in May to see the bluebells. Other wild flowers include the blue and pink flowered lungwort. Among the wealth of butterflies is another of the Forest's treasures, the Silver Washed Fritillary. Foxes and badgers are common. The woods are also home to all four species of Forest deer - red, fallow, roe and sika.

3 The track through the woods passes some deep pits which you will see throughout the New Forest. These were dug for marl, which was an ancient method of fertilising poor land by spreading over it material dug from more fertile areas.

4 When you come to a crossing track by footpath signs, turn right. The track dips downhill and passes the private entrance to Roydon Manor. Keep on until you see a footpath sign on the right indicating a right-of-way on the left.

5 Turn left through two gates along a path bordered by flower-filled meadows. After about one hundred yards look left for a splendid view of Roydon Manor, a gracious seventeenth century house.

6 You do not have far to go to enjoy one of the Forest's most enchanting scenes. Go past the house to where the path drops to cross the river by a small wooden footbridge. The water flows swiftly beneath the boughs of overhanging willows and round the spreading roots of massive oaks. Tall stands of irises fringe the banks and woodland flowers tuck themselves into every hollow. This is a place to stand and stare.

7 From the bridge retrace your steps past Roydon Manor, turning right at the crosstrack to return to the footpath signs at the top of the rise. Leaving the footpath signs on your left keep straight on along the track ahead through another beautiful part of the nature reserve.

8 The way winds up and down hill through a gate with a brass inscribed in memory of Colin Tubbs, a much-loved local ecologist. Then the path bears left and on the right you will see the parkland which once surrounded Brockenhurst Manor, the home of the Morant family. The manor has gone, but the fine park planted with some glorious cedars remains. The path crosses a wide grassy avenue known as The Gallops. This was the training ground of Lovely Cottage, a Grand National winner.

9 When the path reaches a minor road, Church Lane, you can if you wish make a short detour to visit Brockenhurst church. To do so, turn right and you will see the church ahead after less than a quarter of a mile. It is the oldest church in the Forest, incorporating Saxon herring-bone masonry. An enormous yew, which, like the church is mentioned in the Domesday Book, stands to the left of the south porch. Among many fascinating features inside the church is a curtained, boxed-in "Squire's pew". Walk down the hill to the east side of the churchyard to see the beautifully kept memorial to the New Zealand and Indian soldiers who lie there. Brockenhurst Village played its part in both world wars; during the first it was the home of a base hospital. Close by is the grave of "Brusher" Mills, a well-known nineteenth century snake-catcher. His headstone shows him holding a handful of lively-looking snakes outside his Forest home, a simple wigwam of branches covered with turf. To continue the walk, retrace your steps and continue down Church Lane.

10 If you do not visit the church, turn left when the path meets the lane and walk down to the main road, A337. Cross straight over and follow the lane ahead to meet a minor road. Turn left to walk over the open Forest heath, parallel with the minor road to cross the cattle grid before the main road, A337. Turn left and walk over the road to the Filly Inn.

Converted for the new archive on 25 January 2001. Some images and formatting may have been lost in the conversion.

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